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What material you guys recommend to use for sample boards if I've got a bit of left over plaster to use from a project and wanna make sample? Any material you recommend that's sturdy that can hold the blends while exchanging hands a lot?

Thanks!

Hello!

I am coming up on a job plastering a fireplace that poses one major issue. The gas fireplace was installed and drywall was hung and finished before anyone noticed the space where a long vent was supposed to be got covered up.

The architect is proposing drilling multiple ~3/4” holes at the top of the fireplace wall for venting, but have each hole be trim-less. So that would mean having each hole prepped to level 3, then plastering to the edges and on the inside of the hole (the thickness of the drywall).

It seems a bit tricky getting into such small spaces…

My main question is—can this be done, or rather should this be done? Has anyone done something like this or seen a better solution for a situation like this?

Thanks!

Harrison

Hi all!

I have a client who has painted OSB hung as the wall surface in her studio. She has inquired about having plaster done as a finish but would prefer not to have to remove the OSB. To my knowledge wood is not an ideal substrate for plastering onto. Is the only option here to have drywall hung over the OSB? Any advice would be appreciated, open to creative solutions here.

Thanks!

We have been plastering up a storm and learning a lot thanks to your help MK and Jeremy!

In our latest practice project, we found ourselves with some hairline cracks and one pretty large cracked zone. We are attributing this to two too thick finish coats. We were working with the classic blend and we have not applied soap to the wall yet.

A few questions:

• Should both finish coats be mixed to the same consistency? Do you ever lean out your final coat (aka add a touch more water) to aid in applying a thinner coat.

• Now that we have established cracks, is there a way to patch in the cracks to make them disappear? Most are hairline, but one cracked so deep that there is a little play when I push on the area.

• Cracking aside, can you apply classic over dry doubled backed coats of classic (aka if your first attempt at finish coats doesn’t go well, can you try again without redoing from the beginning).

We do have some leftover plaster if that helps.

Thank you!!

After taking the Tadelakt class (amazing), my friend and I have plastered a number of walls in her house with both Heritage and Classic blends. We are psyched about the product overall, but our biggest crux so far has been getting clean lines from plastered wall to non-plastered walls, trim, and ceilings especially.

As we move toward a paid job for a client, I'm curious when and where you might mask off a transition, and if so when do you remove the tape? If not, does anyone have tips on bringing the mud perfectly to those transitions?

Thanks!

When making sample boards for the classic and refined blends - do you recommend doing the standard Heritage base coat and then the final coats, or can you expedite the process by applying the final coats directly over the primer w/ aggregate?

As a brand new plasterer, what are the MUST HAVE trowels for flawless finishes?

thanks for sharing the excellent video on making olive oil soap , locally to me here in Cornwall uk they sell flaked Corfu soap would this still work for making my own sealer ?

thanks for such an incredible portal guys !

when working on site in winter it can be difficult to warm up ,so I like to spend more time plastering the corners - because its always 90 degrees there ......

What are the necessary steps to plaster over painted brick?

Beadex AP lite